March 19 is St. Joseph’s Day—San Giuseppe, in Italian—and, in Italy as well as in many traditionally Catholic countries, is also known as la Festa del papà. The day is meant to honor fathers, fatherhood, and—more broadly—the impact of fathers in society throughout history.
In Italy, la Festa di San Giuseppe was a public holiday until 1977, and it is still a beloved holiday with its own customs and—it goes without saying—food!
San Giuseppe throughout history
According to the Catholic tradition, March 19 was the day Giuseppe died. Giuseppe was the father of Jesus; hence, the day became, and still is in many countries, Father’s Day. In 1479, Pope Sisto IV canonized the day as a holiday.
March 19 falls in the last days of winter, so it also celebrates the coming of the spring. Ancient purification rituals, like bonfires, were once common ways to symbolize the goodbye to winter. Some communities still retain ancient traditions, but for most Italians (especially in urban areas), those traditions are now unknown. What still remains are the celebration of the father figure (more on this below) and the various delicacies that go with this special day.
Zeppole, Bignè di San Giuseppe, and more
Among the most typical and common foods associated with San Giuseppe are zeppole, small, deep-fried dough balls usually topped with powdered sugar and filled with custard or jelly. Originating from Napoli, zeppole seem to go back as far as the Romans. During the ancient Liberalia (a series of Pagan feasts to honor the god of wine and the god of wheat), wheat fritters—the precursors of modern zeppole—were eaten. Others argue that zeppole come from a Catholic tradition, being born in some of the many cloisters around the country. While their true origins are unknown, what is certain is that zeppole are the guest stars of San Giuseppe. The feast also features (moving North to South) gramolino, an oval-shaped brioche, in the Novara area (Piemonte); tortello lombardo, a simple, ball-shaped dough made with flour, eggs, and sugar; raviola, a typical treat traditionally filled with mostarda bolognese (a mixed fruit jelly) in Bologna (Emilia-Romagna); frittella di riso, a rice fritter with spices and liquor, in Toscana and Umbria; bignè di San Giuseppe, with the mandatory custard filling, in Roma; and sfince di San Giuseppe, a soft pastry covered and filled with sweet ricotta and candied fruit, in Sicily. The list is far from being complete, of course, since you can find a specialty in even the tiniest town.
How to celebrate Festa del Papà
There are no specific traditions associated with Festa del Papà except, of course, showing love to fathers and fatherly figures. Small gifts can be given to them, and some families gather to eat traditional treats. It’s not one of those holidays in which the extended family meets; it’s a more nuclear celebration, and every family has its own way of celebrating.
From a broader perspective, the Festa del papà can be an opportunity to reflect on paternal bonds and the fatherly role. For a long time, fathers in Italy were not been greatly involved in children’s education and care; mothers have long taken care of all aspects of everyday relationships with their children. Things have now changed and are still changing. The Italian legislature now considers the role of fathers differently and, among other things, has extended the mandatory paternity leave. Things are far from perfect (or fair, with respect to women), but a cultural shift has taken place in Italy in the last decades, and fathers are now definitely more involved in their children’s upbringing.
By Claudia Quesito
Also read:
How to Host an Italian-Inspired Winter Food Party: Recipes and Tips
The Legendary nonni, aka Italian Grandparents
